ICE CLIMBING

Ontario Ice





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Ice-climbing In And Around Southern Ontario

"Captain Crunch" (WI3) at Raven Lake, near Dorset, Ontario

On this page we've compiled some brief notes about ice-climbing in the following areas.

The following pages also have useful information:

Southern and Central Ontario

Unlike rock-climbing, ice-climbing in Southern Ontario is still in its formative stages. New crags are being discovered every season, and it's rare that you'll encounter more than a handful of other climbers, even at the most popular crags.

Unfortunately, although the winter weather is ideal for ice formation, the topography is not so favourable and there are few crags with a large number of climbs. A typical winter excursion might involves a drive of three hours or more, and perhaps another hour of walking or skiing, to reach a crag that features just one or two pitches of climbing.

Despite this, a day spent climbing in the winter wilderness, amongst the snow-covered hills and frozen lakes, the silence broken only by the distant drone of few snowmobiles, is an experience that is not to be missed.

The best and most scenic climbing in the area is to be found at numerous small crags that dot the Madawaska Highlands between Huntsville and Bancroft. For those who prefer convenience of access to aethsetic considerations, there is also ice-climbing to be found on the southern Niagara Escarpment in and around Hamilton, but the warmer weather in this area and the salt run-off from enroaching urban development means that ice forms less reliably than further north.

Sault Ste. Marie Ontario

A description of Ice Climbing north of Sault Ste. Marie Ontario in the Batchawana Bay-Agawa Canyon Areas by Shaun Parent.

The upcoming 2005 ice-climbing season in this area is looking like a promising one, as the past fall season was a wet one. Located between half an hour and 1.5 hours north of Sault Ste. Marie adjacent to highway 17 this area hosts over 10 separate ice climbing areas.

In the area just south of Lake Superior Park in the vicinity of Montreal River Harbour are several easily accessible Ice climbing sites. Tower Road hosts over 30 short but steep ice climbs up to 10 meters in height. The road is plowed all winter so one can park a vehicle within 20 meters of the climbs.

Just a few minutes north short hikes of 15 minutes from highway 17 take climbers to the Panama Wall where there are 6 climbs up to 25 meters in height the most interesting of these is Aurora Borealis grade 4, 20 meters. Across the highway is the Ryall Wall, on which is found the spectacular “Mother of Pearl” a grade 3+ ice climb 20 meters in height.

. For the more adventurous one can snowshoe or ski along Ranwick Road for 4 kilometers to Ranwick Rock, the site of summer rock climbing activities and a rock climbing guidebook. In the winter there are 8 ice climbs up to 100 meters in length. The access point for Ranwick is at the top of the Montreal River hill.

One area, which has received considerable attention in the past and should see complete development this season, is Cerro-De-Hielo (Mountain of Ice). Located 8 kilometers off highway 17 on the Carp River road at Batchawana. This area contains several individual climbing areas including the Transverse Mercator wall hosting THRESHOLD OF AQUAINTANCE Gr.4, 25 M. The Wall of Deception contains two excellent climbs JACOB’S LADDER Gr.4+, 30 M, and VERTIGO VENTANA a series of blue pillars and curtains rated Gr.4, 30 M high. The Wall of Sinn and the Wall of Sorrow shows promise for a minimum of 25 climbs of 20 meters in height and all in the Gr.4 to 5 ranges. The access road is supposed to be open all winter 2005 as logging is taking place in this area.

The Climbs of Mile 38 Road near the well know Chippewa Falls on highway 17 offers many enticing climbs. Located 4 kilometers down this plowed road from highway 17 the climb "BLUE AVENJURE" 100 M, Gr.3, saw 5 ascents by different parties within the first three days of its first ascent in 2002. It is one of the highest and most accessible ice climbs in the east shore of Lake Superior. The climb DUTCH TREAT Gr.4+, 50 M lies less then 150 meters from where vehicles are parked on Mile 38 road and gives two variations of climbing, one in a chimney choked with ice or a direct headwall.

Since the release of the AGAWA CANYON ICE CLIMBING MAP in 1999 and "Superior Ice" guidebook in 2001 by Granite publishing many more climbers have taken an interest in this well known canyon located north of Sault Ste. Marie. Agawa Canyon has 54 climbs up to 200 meters in length along the 6 miles of canyon between mile 110 and 116. Climbers can enjoy the Algoma Central Railway passenger train service that will drop passengers off to enjoy winter camping at Mile 112 in the center of it all.

Ice climbers have during the winter of 2004 found access points to Agawa Canyon by snowmobile from the Frater Road. This access trail takes one to the edge of Agawa Canyon at Mile 110. Two new areas have been developed in this area, the “ONLY 17 WALL” and the “LIL-AGAWA CANYON” adds another 15 ice climbs to the area with routes up to 50 meters in length. The 2nd edition of the Agawa Canyon Ice climbing guidebook will be available in early 2005, and will include these new areas.

The second area mentioned in the “Superior Ice” guide, Montreal River (South Bay) at Mile 92 on the Algoma Central Railway has 10 climbs up 130 meters in length along a 1.2-kilometer wall of pristine granite. The favorite climb in this area is Comfortably Numb Gr.3+, 120 meters at Mile 92 (South Bay). One can access this are either by train or by snow machine.

A Reconnaissance expedition by snowmobile in January of 2004 up the Montreal River uncovered the SPK, Majestic and Mystic Walls. This face of granite is in excess of 4 kilometers long, and hosts what appears to be the Mid-Continents highest and most aesthetic ice climbs. The highest ice climb in the Mid-continent “STRATOSPHERE Gr.4, 260 meters is found here. Along the same face is the route RITE OF PASSAGE Gr. 4, 160 meters in length is an ice filled fault line. The TURQUISE COYOTE Gr.4, 70 meters and its upper section the EMERALD BOBCAT Gr.4, 50 Meters contain the largest mass of ice in the region. The main danger of accessing these climbs is the Montreal River Reservoir, which seldom freezes, and offers many large expanses of slush and open water throughout the winter months. Several snowmobiles were abandoned last winter in the slush, and one snowmobile went through the ice in the winter of 2003, but was rescued 10 minute later, loosing the machine.

This area is quickly gaining the reputation as a climbing destination for ice climbers in the Midwest and throughout North America, the height and aesthetic value of the climbs.

The local guidebook “Ice Climbs of The Batchawana-Montreal River Harbor areas is now in it’s fourth edition. It includes the climbs of the Montreal River Harbor Area, Cerro-De-Hielo and Mile 38 road. A fifth edition is due out in February 2005, and will contain over 100 ice climbs in 14 separate areas.

Photos, ice conditions, route information is posted frequently on www.climbingcentral.com in Rumor Central.

For ice climbing instruction, guiding, specific route beta, climbing guidebooks, gear rental and snowmobile shuttle service. Contact the North of Superior Climbing Company www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com info@northofsuperiorclimbing.com 705-946-6054

North Of Superior Climbing Company
Montreal River Harbour, Ontario, Canada P0S-1H0
www.northofsuperiorclimbing.com
info@northofsuperiorclimbing.com
705-946-6054

The Adirondacks

The nearest area to Toronto with a high concentration of multi-pitch, good quality ice routes is the Adirondacks in upstate New York, some seven hours' drive away. As a further enticement, the Montreal Section owns a well-equipped cabin that is available to members of other sections. There is an abundance of excellent climbing within a few minutes' drive of the cabin, such as the Chapel Pond Slabs, Cascade Pass, the North Face of Pitchoff, the Roaring Brook Falls and Multiplication Gully, as well as longer alpine-style excursions such as the North Face of the Gothics and the Trap Dike on Mt. Colden.

New Hampshire and Vermont

The ice-climbing to be found in New Hampshire and Vermont is well worth the ten- to twelve-hour drive to get there. Areas such as Mt. Washington, Cannon Mountain, Frankenstein Cliff, Smuggler's Notch and Mt. Willoughby feature climbs of world reknown.

Orient Bay

About 25km north of Nipigon, in North-Western Ontario, lies the greatest concentration of climbable ice to be found anywhere within a day's drive of Toronto (at fifteen hours, admittedly a very long day); indeed, perhaps the greatest concertration anywhere in North America east of the Rockies. Along a single 20km stretch of highway lie upwards of five dozen documented climbs, many of them multi-pitch and most no more than a few minutes' walk from the road. All grades are respresented and the lengthy winters mean that climbs form reliably from November to April every year.

The best time to visit is probably March, when the weather starts to warm up. Earlier in the season temperatures can be minus 40 degrees and below, at which point even the hardiest of climbers would prefer to be indoors.

For further information about climbing in Orient Bay and the Thunder Bay region (current conditions, accomodation, partners, etc.) you can contact Frank Pianka (807-577-7950) of the Thunder Bay Section of the Alpine Club. For another source of information, you can refer to www.climbingcentral.com or contact Shaun Parent in Sault Ste. Marie.


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