ACCESS

Overview

Waivers/Permits

Area Descriptions





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Mt. Nemo Access information

Area

Mt Nemo

Status

 Mt Nemo is open for climbing.

Permit/waiver

"Permits and waivers are required for instructors and students who use Mt. Nemo(and other Conservation Halton Conservation Areas) for rock climbing . Independant climbers do not require permits/waivers."

Location

Mt Nemo is on the Niagara Escarpment north of the QEW. Take the Guelph line north from the QEW and park at the Halton Region Conservation area parking lot at Colling Road

Description

 An extensive and varied range of primarily traditional routes on excellent Escarpment limestone. One of the finest crags in Southern Ontario.

Access Issues/Outlook

 The cliff face and access to the cliff from above is on Conservation Halton (formerly Halton Region Conservation Authority). . The base of the cliff is largely private lands. While climbing is allowed by Conservation Halton it is allowed with the understanding that climbers will follow very strict environmnetal rules listed below. It is essential that all climbers follow the site specific rules or we risk losing access to this excellent crag

Site Specific Rules
  • Absolutely no slinging of cedars on or at the top of the cliff. See the details on Cedar Usage Ban in Conservation Halton
  • Top roping is strongly discouraged on the cliff.
  • No new route activity is permitted on the cliff with out Conservation Halton approval which must be obtained by the Access Committee.
  • No rappelling from any cedar.

Background

Access Committee Position on Mount Nemo Top Rope Ban
The Access Committee's position is not for promoting or preventing any particular climbing style, including top roping at any crag. However, the landowner, Conservation Halton, has stated that the top roping ban at Mt Nemo is now obligatory. All climbers on this crag must respect this ban.
 Most of the cedars at Nemo are hundreds of years old and must not be endangered with the use of slings. It has also been proven that soil at the edge of the cliff that has been compacted over the years may never promote growth again. Therefore we must trample down as little an area as possible when setting up belay anchors or top rope anchors. New growth including young saplings should be carefully avoided to prevent further damage.



Last Updated: June 14, 2002
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