Alpine Club: Access Committee

Waivers/Permits

Area Descriptions

Access Committee Home Page

The Access Committee is a volunteer, not-for-profit group that works with the community, landowners, conservation authorities and property managers to keep climbing and bouldering areas open, and to conserve the climbing environment.

The Access Committee was formed by the ACC and concerned climbers to represent the interests of all climbers on access issues in Southern Ontario.

Found something others should know about? Loose bolts, fixed gear? Please let us know, either with an email to the Access executive, or with a post to the bulletin board!

Access Events and Bulletins
DATE	EVENT
Apr 22/06	Earth Day 2006 Climbers needed for Earth Day cleanup! Help clean up Mt Nemo Barbeque afterwards Climb Ride the Magic Bus! Pickup in front of MEC at 8:00 Sat 22nd, return 4pm
Apr 12	Access Committee Meeting Wed April 12, locaction tbd (probably MEC) 7:30 to 9:30 Agenda to follow Portfolio Manager Confirmation ii. Crag Descriptions iii. Mission Statement iv. Bank Account Setup v. Status on Lists vi. Logo Proposals (discussed later in mtg) 3. Access Issues - Kenessis Crag 4. Logo Proposals 5. Other Business 6. Next Meeting Agenda Items
Nov 7/05	Climbing Rules for Bruce National Park In Bruce National Park only roped climbing is permitted. Bouldering is not permitted.
Feb 08/05	Kennisis River Crag Kennisis River Crag is closed until further notice. Please respect the Landowner's request so as to not compromise future negotiations.
Sept/03	Access Alert - Kelso Quarry closed The Kelso management has formally closed the quarry area to climbing. The closure begins to the west of Jolly Roger and includes all the quarry wall to the cliff end. Kelso staff have marked the beginning of the closure with a bright orange spray painted dot on the cliff Please respect this closure.
Apr 27/03	Access Alert - Sunset Rock Effective immediately only registered climbing groups, with a permit issued through Conservation Halton, will be allowed to use the site for climbing. Please read the details in Sunset permit
Mar27/03	Closure alert, Campden crag closed, negotiations to re-open are underway.
Apr 02/03	Please read the official notice from the Halton Region regarding the slinging of trees. Halton policy

Access Guide to Southern Ontario Climbing Areas ( Table legend)

The purpose of this table is to provide the best available Access related information for the principle climbing areas of Southern Ontario. Please contact the Access Committee if you feel the information is inacurate or out of date. We will attempt to keep this list as current as possible.

Rock Climbing Areas (Go to Ice Climbing section)

Climbing
Area
Status
Out
look

Local
Permit/comment

Central Southern Ontario

Bancroft (Eagles Nest)

See details on obtaining permission for private land.
Climbs behind laundromat closed

Elora Conservation Area

Conservation area closed

Elora Gorge/Irving Creek

Elora area outside of GRCA lands - under review
Please respect any no trespassing signs

Bon Echo

Waiver, Strict site specific rules, please read

Kingston Mills

Area recently re-opened, waiver required

Niagara Peninsula

Niagara Glen
Open for bouldering (extensive), Headwall closed

Campden Crag
closed: resolution unclear: negotiations are underway

Hamilton Region (ice)

Hamilton/Dundas
Ice climbing allowed only! see Ice section below

Halton Region

Tree Usage Ban in Conservation Halton

Kelso
No new routes, No slinging trees, no new bolts
Quarry area closed to climbing

Sunset Rock
Permit required, climbing impact being studied. read Sunset permit

Mt Nemo
No new routes, No slinging trees, no new bolts, Toproping banned Please take the most direct route from cliff top trail to the route

Crag X
Closed

Rattlesnake
No slinging cedars, read rules, Climbing instruction allowed.

Buffalo Crag
No slinging cedars!

Niagara Escarpment Central

Eugenia
Closed, however discussions are underway- Sept 04

Devils Glen
Access to cliff an issue, also provincial park

Metcalfe
NEW! Overnight Camping Ban

Old Baldy
Permit Required

Niagara North

Bruce National Park
Roped Climbing is permitted. Bouldering is not permitted

Cabot Head

Cape Croker
Please respect the First Nation's Private Land

Lions Head
Nature Preserve. Please drive carefully along access road.

TV tower

White Bluff

Nature Preserve. Please drive carefully along access road.

Ice Climbing Areas (Go to Rock Climbing section)

Ice Climbing
Area
Status
Out
look

Local
Permit/comment

Central Southern Ontario

Bancroft (Eagles Nest)

climbs behind the laundromat are closed. See details on obtaining permission for private land

Kennisis River Crag

CLosed Jan 2005. Negotiations proceeding.

Elora Conservation Area

Conservation area closed

Elora Gorge/Irving Creek

Elora area outside of GRCA lands - under review
Please respect any no trespassing signs

Mill Lake

access for the approach and climbs are currently unresolved.

Lake Rosseau

no known issues

Skeleton Lake

Landowner has liability concerns.

Niagara Peninsula

Balls Falls (ice)
Liability concern - discussions underway

Niagara Glen
Headwall closed.

Hamilton Region (ice)

Hamilton/Dundas
Ice climbing allowed only, Permit required

Niagara Escarpment Central

Eugenia
Closed for Rock and Ice

Niagara North

Last Updated: Nov 7, 2005